THE STUPENDOUS UNIVERSITY CITY LIST HAPPY HOUR AT ABBRACCIO

 

The evening began on a somewhat surreal note as I joined the revellers in what I took to be the non-smoking room at Abbraccio. Unfamiliar with the venue as I was, having only dined there once previously before a roaring fire in the Siciliano Room, I was a trifle disoriented and not entirely soigne. But I immediately warmed up as a lovely serving girl in lederhosen and a dirndl offered me a platter full of appetizers, Shrimp Caesar Garlic Wraps in Voodoo Sauce I believe she called them. Made me feel right at home. Didn’t want to make a pig of myself so I only took three to eat on the premises and stuffed the other half dozen in my pockets to ingest at a later date.

 

I was loading my plate with canapes at the sumptuous buffet and trying to decide between the diet 7-Up and the Hooper’s Ruby Port when an officious woman, short, with a rather pinched and officious look came up and introduced herself as Nora and wondered who the hell I was.

 

“Well,” I replied modestly, “I’m merely the neighborhood legend.”

 

She gave me a wicked, supercilious stare, which, if not the actual legendary evil eye, was a pretty reasonable facsimile.

 

“You know, um, Bender.”

 

An icy silence.

 

“The guy Cassidy makes such a big deal about.”

 

“Well, Mr. um Bender, I regret to inform you that this is a PRIVATE party for a select group from the Graduate School of Education at the University of Pennsylvania. Are you familiar with the UNIVERSITY OF PENNSYLVANIA?”

 

“Why yes,” I responded, with an ingratiating grin. “Yes of course. In fact, I am myself an alumnus of the Graduate School of Education at the University of Pennsylvania. MS. TESOL, 1991.”

 

I figured this would go a long way toward breaking the ice and thawing the frozen stalagmite which appeared to be lodged up her bum. I mean, the Olde School ties, fellow denizens of the groves of academe and what not, but she merely hissed and grunted and shoved off to welcome another partygoer and shoo out the skateboard kids who were doing wheelies off the buffet table.

 

At this point I began to have doubts.

 

Was I in fact in the wrong pew? Something about her manner subtly indicated that my name, such as it is, hadn’t rung any bells and that I just might have intruded by accident on a jolly get together which was NOT the one I had been expecting.

 

I hastily retired to the men’s room, clutching my diet 7-Up and my canapes, looked in the mirror, drew out my comb and gave my hair the old Wolfowitz spit-polish treatment, gulped down several Valiums and a ‘lude, and headed out to find the warm welcome which I HAD in fact been expecting.

 

The barroom was practically deserted, except for a despondent looking fellow with several days worth of whiskers draped over the bar. Turned out of course to be Cassidy, who apparently had been whiling away the lonely hours with martinis and bar wine from the notorious ceramic barfing chicken. I wondered where all the mad throng was that I had heard about, and my tumultous welcome, but as he turned and linked his blood-shot eyes with mine my heart leaped within me.

 

“Dude,” he stammered.

 

“Dude,” I said.

 

“Sweet,” he countered.

 

“Sweet,” I affirmed.

 

We exchanged the secret UC List handshake and he motioned me to the bar.

 

“Whash yer pleashure?” he slurred. He had quite obviously been drinking for several days.

 

I gestured with my diet 7-Up and queried, “Where are the joyous throngs?”

 

He gestured expansively and knocked over a ceramic chicken which  smashed to bits on the floor.

 

“Pashience,” he stuttered. “They be here shoon. Have a lil drinkie.”

 

I seated myself decorously at the bar, being careful to leave an empty stool between us. I took a swig from my diet 7-Up and tried to avoid the bartender’s glance.

 

“So,” I repeated. “The joyous throngs – you led me to believe there would be quite a party going on here. And where’s yer little Banana Fishie?”

 

Several large glutinous tears dripped from his bloodshot eyes.

 

“Mah baby done left me,” he sobbed, and broke into a cracked tenor: “Mah baybee done parked by Coonshkin Crik with someone else …. and I feel like homemade …..”

 

At that instant the barroom door swung open and the joyous throng burst in.

 

“Bartender, drinks for everybody in the house!” bellowed a large woman, a real estate agent of some sort by the looks of her.

 

“Gimme another martini,” said Cassidy, looking pleased. “Only thish time staken, not shirred.”

 

There were tumultous introductions all round as the gang put in their drink orders – a Luminous Robot, an Armadillo Fettucine Grande with a lemon twist, a Swinging Lesbian Gin Patootie, several malt whiskeys and a few beers.

 

Then the bartender turned to me with his piercing gaze and said, “OK buddy, order up. What’ll it be?”

 

I had not come unprepared, and I ordered a Shirley Temple with a devil-may-care flourish. It came with more maraschino cherries than I had remembered, and the dash of Tabasco sauce was an innovative flourish, something more au courant than I had remembered from my drinking days, but nobody seemed to notice and I downed one quickly and asked for another, which I nursed rather more slowly.

 

Our gracious host, Rogerio Escalante, put out several platters of delicacies and soon the party was “wilding”, as I believe the term is, at full tilt.

 

There were UC Villagers of all shapes and sizes, some whose names were familiar to me from their long wearisome tirades on the email discussion list. Lawyers, dentists, chimney repairmen, roofers, historical preservationists, all chattering merrily about the difficulty of finding good servants these days and complaining about the spam on AOL.

 

Presently Escalante (call me “Rogerio”) brought out the piece de resistance, a new entrée called simply and grandly “Portobello Stacks.” Apparently Cassidy, a sometime vegan, had been bitching about the level of cholesterol in the famous Abbraccio brunches, and this was the elegant Abbraccio solution. It was an actual 3-inch stack of Portobello mushrooms, about the size of medium pancakes, surrounded with delicate little scoops of mashed potatoes. Being a Mennonite, accustomed to the coarse daily peasant fare of scrapple, turnips, roast beef, legumes, and scrapple, and unused to the elite style of gourmandise and savoir faire which prevails over at the “Italian Scallion’s”, I cannot do justice to this dish in mere words. Suffice it to say that it melted on the tongue.

 

Several hours later as the gang was well liquored, and I myself was on my fourth Shirley Temple, we all staggered out onto the balcony, or “Il Porchetto”, where our genial host had arranged several tables so that we could watch the sunset over Calvary Methodist Church, which was odd because it was by now well past midnight, and I began to “loosen up”, that is to say, lose some of my instinctual Mennonite  reserve and “party down”.

 

I found myself suddenly sprawled in the lap of a well-endowed but congenial Samoan lady whom, as I apologized and righted myself, proved to be a travelling real estate speculator, just in town for a few months to buy up several dozen houses on the lucrative Philadelphia market. Whether it was the potent effect of the Portobello shrooms kicking in, or, as I began to suspect, that the bartender had spiked my drink with Tequila, I became more and more effusive as the evening wore on, sharing stories with my island enchantress of my travels in the Pacific and listening raptly as she regaled me with tales of coming of age in Samoa and dancing the night away in the Tiki Tiki room. Fortunately or not, she proved to have a watchful husband in attendance upon her, and thus our gay repartee and lustful interaction was confined to the conversational mode.

 

There were so many other guests and so much noise that I couldn’t meet each of the revellers and have the face to face chat that I had been longing for. Bruce Andersen was there in his Boy Scout drag with two young boys who kept darting under the table and lapping up the spilt martinis. I was pleased to finally make the acquaintance of  J. Cass, Esq., who came in late in a three piece suit and whom at first I mistook for a life insurance salesman. In fact, at times the porch seemed to be knee-deep in lawyers, for example the elegant Karen Allen, whom I understand is working undercover with the KGB these days. Or perhaps it was the State Department. Truthfully I found it increasingly difficult to keep peoples’ identities straight as the night wore on and more and more guests arrived.

 

At dawn, most of the partygoers were sacked out under the tables, although Cassidy was still going strong and exhibiting his remarkable Melani Lamond impression, which consists primarily of talking incessantly at nonstop speed about those damn spam filters at AOL and the wisdom of nude bathing over at “The Pool.” By dawn the sun was coming up and I myself was a spent force. As I staggered across Baltimore Avenue I thought to myself, “Golly that was keen. Have to do it again sometime, perhaps even on a weekly basis. Only next time I promise to limit myself to four drinkies, in the good old Penn tradition.”

 

 

 

 

 

all photos by Kyle "Duke" Cassidy


l. Bruce

r. Philadelphia lawyers


l. Cassidy outbarfs the chicken

r. real estate agents (or are they realators?)


l. "I Am Charlotte Simmons"

r. Wanda Ong and the late Estes Kefauver

HAPPY (yawn) HOUR AT ABBRACCIO (8/2/2005)

The Monday night Happy Hour at Abbraccio draws a whole different clientele from its rowdier Wednesday night crowd. I've been to Mennonite Sewing Circle meetups that were livelier. Dull isn't quite the right word for it -- maybe the mot juste would be: earnest, grave, no-nonsense, sober, sobersided, solemn, somber, staid, weighty, calm, placid, serene, tranquil, collected, composed, dispassionate, imperturbable, unruffled, decorous, dignified, proper, seemly -- take your pick. I mean, after the last Abbraccio meetup I was expecting something more on the order of head-banging, moshpits, naked dancing on the tables, etc, but this crowd, fuggedaboutit. That old Ramones song kept going through my head -- "Twenty-twenty-twenty-four hours to go, I wanna be sedated."

I sensed it would be a, how shall I say it? -- "boring" -- evening when I walked into the room and was asked to write my name with magic marker on a "Name Tag" sticker -- you know, one of those pleasant little decals with a smiley face that say "Hi! My name is so-and-so, and I'm absolutely THRILLED to meet you!" Of course I used a false name -- Cyril Slothrop. First person I met was this tattooed weirdo (skulls and crossbones all down his forearm) whose name tag said "Bob". So I introduced myself, saying "Hi! My name is Cyril and I'm really glad to meet you" and the dude said "Actually, my real name is Brendan, but I just put 'Bob' for a joke." Brendan then proceeded to give me a half-hour nonstop disquistion on the Mill Creek sewerways -- fascinating enough stuff, in its way, and of course it made a splendid opening for me to tell him all about the ancient Indus civilization and their absolutely stunning irrigation and waste disposal systems. I could have gone on for several hours, but then our host, the debonair Rogerio d'Escalante, called the meeting to order, told us how glad he was to see us all, led us in a short invocation, and handed out the table games.

There were Scrabble, Twenty Questions, Taboo, Parchesi, and Dominoes, which of course were breathtaking enough, but the real highlight of the evening was Animal Bingo. We all got these fancy multicolored cards with pictures of different animals -- domestic and exotic -- and Rogerio called out the names until somebody got five in a row. My luck was out, and even though I played seven rounds I always got the card with the ferret, the pitbull, the water rat, and Scrunch the cat, which was kind of a downer.

The quality of the hors d'oeuvres, however, was excellente, and the free food more or less made up for the tedium of the evening as a whole. To give you some idea of the atmosphere, Melani had actually brought along her crotcheting -- or maybe it was her 'tatting' , and was showing the other old ladies, of whom there were plenty, some fancy knitting moves and strategies.

I must have fallen asleep, because when I woke up with a start the room was empty and Cassidy was just sweeping out the door with his entourage, saying "Let's blow this popsicle stand, kiddies." There was something else I didn't quite catch about "bhong hits in the old hot tub" but I was so groggy at that point that I just staggered home and washed up the dinner dishes.

elton and hillary

HAPPY HOUR AT THE ABBRACCIO [3/31/2006]

I arrived punctually at 5:30, looked around for Cassidy, and, upon not immediately spying him, sat down at the bar to drown my sorrows in a large diet Pepsi. To tell the truth, I was somewhat the worse for wear, having just spent the last 48 hours in the air enroute from Amman, Jordan, bringing in a shipment of hash and making a quick stop up in Kamloops to check on my BC bud plantation at Shuswap Lake. My operation up there is tended to by a band of Coquihalla Indians, or should I say First Canadians, but I had heard that the Colombian families were making inroads and I wanted to make sure that everything was hunky-dory. Anyhow, I was plumb tuckered, and to make it worse that song kept going through my head – “Flying into Los Angeles, bringing in a couple of keys, don’t touch my bags if you please, Mister Customs Man – and naturally my nerves were worn to a frazzle. At any rate I was looking forward to a nice quiet happy hour at Big Hugs, just a few close friends and a barfing chicken, unwinding a bit from my rigorous tour of duty. First sign of something wrong was when Cassidy strode in in a tuxedo.

“Dude,” I greeted him.

“Dude,” he replied.

“Why are you all dressed up, man? The light hurts my eyes.”

“Didn’t you hear? We’re having a formal night for a change.”

“Oh shit,” I said, discomfited because I was wearing my usual frazzled old jeans and my tie-dyed tee and a worn smoking jacket. “Dude, look at me; I haven’t got a thing to wear.”

“No problemo,” he informed me. “Rogerio keeps a supply in the back room and will rent you appropriate evening wear for fifty bucks.”

“Oh, man,” I sighed. “And I was looking forward to a quiet evening.”

“Chin up!” said Cassidy. “We got special company tonight.”

“Oh, you mean Da Fonz is gonna make it after all?”

“No,” he laughed. “Melani and Liz are gonna make the scene. It’ll be loads of fun.”

“Yeah, right,” I sneered, but toddled off to the men’s room to be fitted in my tuxedo and cummerbund. It actually only cost me 39 bucks and change – Rogerio said he was giving me a special discount, but I bet he says that to all the customers – and with the Benjamin that Cassidy normally pays me to show up at these “events” of his, I was still coming out ahead. I’ve often wondered about the economics of this whole operation, like how much of a kickback Cassidy gets from the management to drag customers in, but I suppose somehow the joint manages to turn a profit.

So Cassidy sits in his usual place at the head of the table and the guests start to drift in. Have to admit that the folks looked fancier than the usual Friday night crowd, the men in black tie and Melani in this slinky black velvet sheath, Liz in a colorful tent-like caftan.

So after cocktails everybody sits down at the long banquette and the first course is served, and I start to perk up, because the soup is a chilled cucumber and yogurt with dill and a soupcon of garlic. Actually a pretty damn fine soup, as soups go, with chopped walnuts and parsley sprinkled artfully on the top, and as I slurp spoonful after spoonful I finally start to relax.

In fact I start to relax a whole lot. They light up the candles and slowly the room starts swaying – they’re piping in Vivaldi or Scarlatti or something classy on the sound system, and everybody starts giggling for no particular reason I can see. I mean the conversation is not what you’d call sparkling. Melani is going at some length into the gory details of her latest hobby, sumo wrestling. Pete the artist is bragging up his latest film, a documentary in the Philly Film Festival called “Hard Coal” – it’s about these gay coal-miners out in the mountains of western Pennsylvania.

But people are laughing and guffawing and Liz laughs so hard she starts choking on the soup, and I begin to have my suspicions.

“Cassidy,” I hiss. “You didn’t!”

“Chill, bro,” he replies with an enormous grin splitting his face.

“Oh shit, here we go again,” I say, because my well-trained nervous system has detected a soupcon of mescaline in the soup, and I realize it’s going to be one of those nights again. I mean, it was funny enough back in the 60s when the Beatles got a little help from their friends and somebody dosed their martinis with LSD and all of a sudden these rhinoceros hoofs came out of the walls and the roof was on fire, but hell, this is 2006 and I’m pretty damn sure Melani has never done anything any stronger than a little low-grade hemp and I’m not sure I wanna see how she reacts to the stronger stuff.

But I don’t have to wait very long because suddenly Dan Morton is stripped down to his loincloth and he and Melani are demonstrating sumo grips up on the bar. I don’t wanna wait to see what’s going to happen next, so I furtively pay my bill, excuse myself on the pretext of going to the men’s room, change back into my duds and get the hell out of there.

I mean, fun is fun, but sometimes Cassidy just takes it too far.

---Ross Bender